Lenten Sunday in Antigua Guatemala

As a Frenchman living in Guatemala, this is one of the traditions that impresses me the most…

Fifth Sunday of Lent: the day of one of the most famous processions in Antigua Guatemala. I had already experienced this tradition in 2022, during my first long stay in the country. Two years later, I’m still amazed by the beauty of the route and the huge number of people who gather to watch it.

Leaving the traffic behind: the luxury of a pedestrian Antigua

My experience starts at 3:15 p.m. when I arrive at the Santa Inés municipal parking lot (it costs Q20 and there’s plenty of space). My companions and I decide to walk instead of taking the bus to save time. In fact, traffic backs up endlessly at the entrance to Antigua, so it’s better to walk!

After a 20-minute walk under the sun and breathing in car fumes (the part I liked the least 😅), we finally reach the center. My tip to avoid this is to go up and pass through the village of Santa Inés, so you don’t have to walk along the roadside. What I love most about these Lenten Sundays is having this heritage city completely pedestrian: it’s a luxury. For now, this only happens on Lenten Sundays and a few other events during the year, but I’m sure the future of this beautiful city will be car-free!

Now it’s time to check the map to see where the procession is coming from. Given the time (4:00 p.m.), and knowing there are always delays, we head toward La Candelaria.

The ephemeral art of Antigua’s carpets

Along the way, I enjoy the carpets: an ephemeral, colorful art form that the people of Antigua make with their hearts. They tend to them until the very last second, dampening every part of their work.

Beyond the visuals, something that stays etched in my memory is the smells: the mix of incense, sawdust and fresh flowers.

Here comes the procession!

Looking for the procession, we reach 4th Avenida Norte… and here it comes. I find a perfect spot by a post that lets me see well and take good photos! It all starts with the Roman soldiers (which really adds to that feeling of stepping back in time), followed by an endless line of men dressed in purple robes: the famous cucuruchos! Among all these people, water vendors call out what they’re selling; under this sun, it’s a good business.

The passing of the Jesús de la Caída float

Finally, the float of Jesús de la Caída arrives. Ninety cucuruchos carry this float, which usually weighs between 1,500 and 2,000 pounds. The funeral march playing in the background and the devoted faces give this moment a real sense of solemnity. I take the chance to snap photos, trying to capture that essence.

The passing of the Virgin’s float

Behind it comes the Virgin’s procession. The float is smaller, carried on the shoulders of 26 devoted bearers.

In total, it took about 45 minutes from the Roman soldiers passing by to the tail end of the procession, where municipal staff immediately start cleaning up what’s left of the carpets.

To wrap up this experience, I needed something refreshing, so I bought myself a mango licuado. What a treat!